Safari and home

We awoke in our hotel at 6am on the last morning and had breakfast. Afterwards we set off for a 4 hour safari at Arusha National park where we saw many animals such as the photos above.

Afterwards we travelled the remaining 6 hours to Kenya's Nairobi airport through the god-awful customs points (again....) and home via Kenyan Airways.

I am now at home and signing off with this, my last posting. This has truly been the trip of my life. I have had the absolute pleasure of spending nearly 10 days with a group of people whom I am now privileged to call my friends. To say that in those ten days, in extremely testing circumstances, we never had one single solitary cross word says volumes for the amazing characyters involved.

I am proud of each and every one of this team. What a journey !!

Thanks for reading.

Post summit climb

After the hard exploits of summit day, we trekked onward for three hours to Horombu camp where we spent the night. Peter, Jacky and Jez had travelled earlier. With the main climb now behind us, the atmosphere in camp was relaxed though absolutely shattered.

Regardless, as you will see in the photo, the scenery remained stunning to the end. We all had a full night's sleep - including me for the first time !!

In the morning we awoke and travelled six hours to our hotel via the traditional "tourist route". The walk was (thankfully) downhill throughout though tiring nonetheless. What hit us during this walk was how lucky we have been to have traqvelled into the "real" Kilimanjaro and not been subjected to the touristic path that had been these last few hours. The BBC, sadly, in its comic relief efforts will be adventuring more via the touristy routes, though not entirely.

I did it !!!!

We were awoken on summit night at 10pm for our briefing. The temperature was minus 8 and we had four layers of trousers on and five layers on the chest. It was cold and very windy.

Immediately we were let into the scale of our task. There are two main routes up to the summit of kilimanjaro being the Western route and the Kibo route. The western route is used by 90% of tourists and is being used by the BBC comic relief team. We, however, were going up the Kibo route which is that used by climbers and experienced altitude hikers. We were told that the climb (note not walk.....climb) would take 6 to 7 hours in darkness to the first stop point being Gilmans point. Then another 90 minutes to the summit and Uhuru peak. We were advised that the climb would, for the last half be at a gradient of 30 degrees and would be very difficult indeed. At the top the oxygen level would be around 8% as compared to 22% in England. Simply moving at this level was almost impossible!! The human body cannot survive at 6.5% oxygen so we were right on the edge.

To put the summit in context we were about to climb the equivalent of Ben Nevis, in the dark, with little to no oxygen!! I have to be honest I was apprehensive.

Jez, who is without doubt the fittest in the group and had trained immensely for this had been suffering with a cold and flu all week and had, as a result, not been able to adjust properly to the altitude. The Park advised everyone with a cold not to go over 3,000 metres as you simply cannot adjust properly. To note that Jez got to 4,300 and Kibo camp is a testiment to his strength and determination. Sensibly, however, Jez decided overnight not to attempt the summit. Another day, perhaps. We were down to 7.

Here though is an important point. Our group were attempting this climb DRUG FREE. Post climbers use a potentially dangerous drug called diamox which masks the symptoms of altitude sickness (thereby enabling you to climb) but it does not remove the problem. I personally am aware of a man who last year had a near fatal experience on Kilimanjaro as he used diamox which masked a pulomary oedema. Jez: we are all proud that, even in the face of desperation, you refused to take this drug. Unlike the Americans in camp who, along with thigh and calf steroid injections had been taking diamox for weeks !!!!

At 12pm the 7 of us set off walking at less than a snails pace. We were literally putting one foot in front of the other. After 30 minutes Jacky, who had picked up a bug from the water supply and had not been well for days decided she was not well enough to continue. We were down to 6.

After an hour, Charlie, the leader of our group unexpectedly lost the ability to balance and see properly. It was a surreal experience to witness the sudden, acute, onset of altitude sickness. What made it all the more real as that this was Charlie - the group leader and someone who had literally devoured everything in this adventure so far. Charlie had a severe attack of altitude sickness and was unable to continue. This was very sobering indeed. We were down to 5.

The five of us being Jane, Dean, Mark, Simon and myself continued for another hour or so and we reached a third of the way up. At this point the gradient turned severe and you felt as if you could fall off the mountain at any time. Soon after the gradient changed, Dean, who is a personal fitness trainer, had a terrible attack of altitude sickness induced nausea and had to withdraw from the main group. Again totally unexpected, Dean was lost to the main group. At this stage we did not know if Dean was carrying on or not. The main group was down to 4.

I cannot properly put into words just how hard the next four hours were. At times climbing in the dark (using only a head torch) on your knees, other times literally pulling yourself up with your bare hands, the climb was excrutiating. About 300 metres from the first stop point I was shattered. Totally spent. I had nothing left and I could not move. Jane, Mark and Simon carried on. Legends all three of them, they were (at this point anyway!!) strong and relentless. I was pretty spaced out and after a few minutes I realised that I had no idea where Mark, Simon and Jane were. I stopped and lay on the ground and asked myself whether I really wanted to do this? After 15 minutes rest (which is so hard at this altitude with your heart literally thumping in your head) I decided to carry on. This, I told myself, was what IT WAS ALL ABOUT.

It took me a whole hour to do the 300 metres to the first stop point. This, mind you, is at 5600 metres high. When I got there, I collapsed. I literally fell to the floor. Dead!! The Tanzanian boss of the climb arrived and measured my pulse. It was 208 !!!!!!!!!!!!! Now those that know me well know that I am blessed with a very low resting pulse rate of 42. Before we set off it was measured at 84 (the altitude doubles your pulse rate at 4000 metres). He advised me that whilst not dangerous (a pulse in a fit man can go to 250 for a few hours of extreme exercise) he said I should not continue.

I just lay there and hit my "moment of truth". How badly did I want to do this? Could I even move? I knew I had the mental energy but could I put it all together? And that is when I saw Jane who was seemed to be going through the same thoughts at the same point. Mark and Simon, who were incredible frankly on summit night, had started their Summit bid already. Between us, Jane and I decided that, so long as we were not endangering ourselves we were going to give it a go. Even if we crawled there.

After resting for 30 minutes (my pulse lowered to 176) we set off. We walked (and I often crawled - quite literally !!) past glaciers well over 100 feet high, we past 400 feet volcanic craters. I had to stop 10 times to catch what little breath I could get. Jane was a true tower of strength for me at this point. My asthma as a child was definitely hindering my lung capacity by now, though I confess I kept that to myself. I knew I had trained hard and that I had doubled my aerobic capacity - so I ignored the familar sound of wheezing in my chest. We past Mark and Simon who had reached the summit. The sheer elation in their faces was fantstic to see.

With 200 metres to go Jane shouted that she could see the top and this spurred me on. Slowly, very very slowly we got there. Four of us had succeeeded.

Dean, drawing on every ounce of his superb fitness, had managed to get to the 5600m that is Gilman's point. Quite how he did that with altitude sickness none of us can quite believe. His, in many ways was an ever harder thing to do. Incredible effort.

The drama, for me however, was not over yet. On the descent I realised that in my efforts to get to the top I had literally forgotten to drink the energy filled water that I had been given. I hadn't had a sible drop. Idiot !!! As a result three quarters of the way down my legs and body refused to talk to each other and I started to wobble. And boy did I wobble !! Amazingly, a tanzanian poerter Hussen that I had befriended throughout the climb saw me in trouble and climbed up and helped me down. This selfless act was absolutely representative of the nature of the locals in Tanzania who, to a man, were truly incredible.

Back at camp I had the strangest experience. I got back to my tent and burst into tears. I couldn't stop!! Whether from sheer exhaughstion, relief, emotion or whatever - I was crying like a baby. What a strange feeling it was !!!

So. Four of us tamed the Mountain using the hardest summit route that is Kebo. For me, I am really proud of myself. I set about this challenge to see if I could use that determination (sometimes stubborness....) that I have used in my business career for years and apply it to the hardest of physical challenges. That I did is one of the best moments of my life. I know that sounds very cliche - but it really is.

My lips are cut to pieces, I am sunburned on my ears, eyes, nose and arms and I ache everywhere and then some more. I shall not be doing anything like it in a hurry again however !!

I have some stunning photos which I will post when I get back to the UK on Monday.

Thanks for following. Please forgive me for any typos and weird statements. Focusing on a keyboard on my iphone has been a challenge from day 2 !!!

Ciao for now.

The moment of truth

When I started the training for this climb I expected it to be hard. And I am not being disappointed!!!

On day 5 evening we reached 14000 feet which is the main height for altitude problems to kick in. And I was not dissappointed as Mike Tyson reappeared in my head in spades. At times unable to focus it was really painful. Thankfully however it passed after a few hours. Other members of the team had nausea, wobbly legs and general malaise. Mark continues to be the only member who has been symptom free.

Day 5 night saw peter and I have our 5th pretty much sleepless night. Not only did the temperature plummet to around minus 10 degrees (we had frost inside the tent by midnight!!!) but breathing was so difficult in the oxygen depleted atmosphere that sleep was interupted after just a few breaths. At 8am we set off for the 5 hour trek to base camp from where I am writing this. Base camp is at 15600 ft some 4000 feet below the summit. The climb was incredibly difficult with low oxygen, freezing temperatures and 60 mph winds!! Several of the group felt unwell as we climbed to this new height and the effects of altitude kicked in even further. We arrived at the camp shattered.

Sadly peter, who has been the stalwart of the camp throughout and has helped everyone through every problem imaginable was not well today and has taken the sensible decision to celebrate the amazing achievement of reaching base camp but not to attempt the summit climb. As for me, my well bring ebbs and flows but at the moment I have been cleared to attempt the summit climb at midnight tonight. The summit climb takes nearly 11 hours up and down and reaching the top is by no means certain. Statistically, only a third succeed. The summit climb is extremely hard, so I promise I will be sensible and the first sign of problems I will decend!!!

This adventure has been something that I have really wanted to do. To test myself in an environment that few ever get to see and one which is so "not nigel". Frankly I have been in awe of the scenery throughout though I have already been tested more than I thought I was capable of. I am now off to rest to recuperate for the challenge of tonight. The moment of truth.

Wish me luck!

End of day 5

We are at camp at the end of day four having climbed to about 14,300 feet. Everyone is still standing!

The walk was without doubt the most picturesque of our lives: no rain, walking through the clouds to see kilimanjaro emerge in sheer blue sky and vivid sunshine. The photo is not kilimanjaro but of Mowenzi peak by our camp. Tonight, temperatures will fall to minus ten or so!

Peter has had a strong day with no emergence of his altitude sickness. He is very relieved! We all have headaches - mine is quite bad today but still manageable. Everyone remains strong and in good spirit.

Day five morning

After four hours of rain overnight followed by sub zero temperatures we awoke to a wonderful sunbaked kilimanjaro. The whole team feels well as we face the first serious challenge - our climb to 14000 feet- a height where altitude sickness affects most.

We all leave in great spirit.

Mike Tyson, drunkards and day 4

The evening of day three and the walk of day four has brought this trip into sharp focus and the team down to earth.

Last night over dinner we started to notice our hearts racing. Checking pulse rates, all nine of us, at rest, were running at least50% above normal. So much so that you could hear your heart above the conversation!! It was both fun and a little scary at the same time!

For many, including me for the first time, the day brought on some symptoms of altitude sickness. Peter went very giddy, I had a woozy headache and Jez felt awful. None of the symptoms were that bad though and were manageable - until we tried to sleep. Trying to fall asleep with your heart beating so fast was difficult to impossible. Peter had a great nights sleep however as did a few others and they awoke in good spirits. Sadly Charlie and I had another sleepless night and that hasnt helped. Once we got going however my tiredness disappeared and I now feel fine. Not perfect but pretty good. Put it this way, Mike Tyson has had a few rounds inside my head but he retired in round three !!

Peter has had both a brilliant and awful morning. Half way through the walk he got real altitude sickness and his eyesight blurred and the world span for half an hour. Fantastically however he walked through it ( a real show if strength I must say as he was not in a good place) and it has gone !!! The locals were very impressed. We hope it has gone for good.

We are now at 12500 feet and at camp. We are all in very good spirits and ready for a huge and hard climb tomorrow. This is an amazing adventure and I would not swap it for anything.

Wish us luck.

Day 3

We ate well yesterday evening ready for the harder day ahead. We all slept pretty poorly though: a combination of the sleeping bags, mark's incredible snoring and the buffalo which stampeded through camp in the small hours all contributed to a couple of hours at best. Undaunted we got up at 6am and set off at 830.

Peter was being camp master helping everyone pack! Today's climb was harder. We have climbed to 11,400 feet. We only have 14% oxygen at this level and you can certainly tell the difference. Some of the group are breathing heavily and headaches and dizziness abound. Peter has been a little dizzy today but we think that was lack of sugar as it has gone now we have eaten. As for me I am a little concerned - I have no symptoms at all at present and am climbing strongly. But this may not be good. Unfortunately the guides tell us this is either brilliant (as I am not going to get ill) or it is bad as by body will adjust to the lack of oxygen at a higher altitude. If this happens on summit day then I will have to abort. At present however I feel fantastic. I am extrenely positive and loving every knackering minute.

I genuinely hope I get a headache tomorrow though!!! Love to all. We have no phone signal in camp so we will not be able to phone or text home today.

Day 3

Half way up on day three and everything is great. A few are I'll but
nothing serious. Peter and I are fine with no effects yet.

End of day 2

Day 2 was truly fantastic. We have climbed to 2700 metres approx 8800
feet. Treking through the rainforest the climb was constant but
manageable. But then day 1 is by far the easiest day.

We are all feeling the altitude already but only to a small extent.
Still at three times the height of mount snowdon that's probably not
surprising!

For my part I feel great. Little to no headache so far and no heavy
breathing. Peter has a slight headache but nothing much. My highlight
of the day was seeing the amazing Columbus monkeys in the rainforest.

Tomorrow is a hard day. A long walk and hard climbing. To be honest I
can't wait!

Love to everyone. At the moment we can send email but cannot text or
call so apologies to family .

After an ubscheduled stop at a local school, when the jeep broke down
we are off! We have moved 6414 feet up the mountain and now at twelve
local time the hard work begins.
It is hot with some cloud. We have all slept like babies and are ready
to go. My cold is still ever present and I am pretty bunged up - but
it is improving.

Quite how these guys can carry all the water up the mountain I stagger
to think. Today is the easiest day so should be okay. We shall see.

Will write in detail tonight. Love to all.

Day 1

Well day 1 is nearly over and to be honest it has been very hard indeed.

Because of the snow we had to leave Milton Keynes several hours early. Our flight was understandably delayed, it was oversold and overfull. We were all packed into the back of the plane for 8 hours and didn't sleep.

Then we hit the delights of Kenyan customs which surpassed the worst I had ever seen. It was a nightmare!!

Still only a short coach journey to go.....or so we thought. Alas not.

Our 4 hour coach trip has taken 9 hours so far and we are not there yet! Most of the roads (if you can call them that) are being resurfaced and diversions are in operation literally across the country.

We estimate at this stage when we arrive at Kili we will have been travelling 28 hours non stop and without sleep. We are all shattered and more than a little apprehensive now about how we will cope with the climb early tomorrow morning. Oh - and it's raining!!!

Despite the travel difficulties everyone remains in good spirit- though we all look like tired travellers!!!

The fun part of today has been learning about how false the BBC Comic Relief climb is.

These wonderful 9 celebrities are having their own showers carried up the mountain (yes really). They are having personal and brand new toilets carried up, they have all refused to drink the local water so they are having hundreds of bottles carried up - and they are being given speical mattresses so they can sleep properly.

The 9 celebrities will have over 120 porters carrying stuff up the mountain for them!!!!!!

How do we know this? Because our guide Emmanual is taking them up after us.

Bet they don't show that lot on the BBC!!!!

They will also be given extra time on the mountain over and above the norm so as they can all acclimatise and make it up.

Basically one big fraud then.

What the BBC??? Never!!!!

Kenya oh Kenya

We arrived in Kenya after an 8 hour flight, squashed like sardines at
the back of the plane- but it wasn't too bad.

But we hadn't allowed for Kenyan visa control. An hour and a half in
the queue and still nowhere near the front.

Oh what fun!!

We are away

Well we are boarded and about to go -and pretty much on time too!
Lunch at T4 was pretty ropey, my credit card has been refused 3 times
(Does anything work properly in England anymore)? Despite me phoning
and writing to Barclaycard to tell them what I was doing. And the
plane is oversold and overfull!!!.

Regardless we are all in high spirits and genuinely excited now.

Love to all my family and neighbours and friends who may be reading my
ramblings!

TTFN

Arrived at heathrow

After an interesting journey through blizzards, snow and rain with the
fuses on the bus blowing (so no windscreen wipers for most of the
journey) we have arrived at another of our country's embarassing
establishments that is T4 heathrow.

We are all now sat in the only eatery at T4 (yes there is now only
one) having lunch listening to the brilliant jeremy clarkson who says
exactly what everyone else thinks but is afraid to say it!

At the moment we still expect to leave in time but we have been told
this depends on the snow storm at around 5pm.

Onwards and upwards !!.

On our way

Well we are off - and after 8 inches of snow overnight it is going to
be an interesting trip to heathrow.

To top it all my cold has returned with a vengence!! Yippee-de-do.

When will we go?

The weather gods are starting to conspire against us - so we are all a little apprehensive. At 4pm this afternoon the BBC have issued a weather warning for North West London (ie Heathrow) of 8 inches of snow tomorrow - Friday. Heathrow are saying that if the snow does indeed arrive in the quantities forecast then there will be "inevitable and severe disruption to air travel" whatever that means. Fingers crossed that we will not be too delayed.

Apprehensively Inspired

Well the good news is that my cough is improving and at this rate it should be gone by Friday. Still there, but not as bad as earlier. All we need to hope for now is that the heavy snow that may hit on Friday does not in fact happen!!

Over the last couple of days I have been looking on the internet for videos of people climbing Kilimanjaro. Whilst there are many, the best one I found is: http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=Bxq53a1bTsU&feature=related - if you have a few spare minutes take a look.

For the most part I found it inspiring and the excitement I have had now for a few months of pushing my creaking bones to get to the summit was re-enforced. What a truly fantastic thing to attempt to do !! I still cannot believe I am even trying to be honest. I would be lying however if, at the same time, seeing footage like that made me a little apprehensive. I think though that perhaps that's a natural reaction. The shortage of breath these guys had on the last day was acute.

To me however, and to all my now good friends who I have the pleasure of climbing with, perhaps the most telling part of the film was at the very end where the climbers thank the guides "for teaching me to walk slowly". My memories of the two "iron men" failing to reach 3,300m in Austria because they went too fast flooded back. If there's one thing I have learned these past few months it is this: fast walkers stand a much reduced chance of making it. Whether I make it or not remains to be seen, I will of course give it my best shot. But that "best shot" will be at a sensible slow pace !!

Half full or half empty?

Generally I live my life in "half full" mode. So this morning I'm testing that theory as I have woken up with a terrible cough. Caught courtesy of my kids (both of whom had it) I feel dreadful. My eyes look like Alice Cooper's and my skin is the coulour of my wife's blusher. Yippe-dee-do. So why is that good news I hear you ask? Well coughs tend to last only a few days (he says hopefully), so if you are going to get one then get one six days before you go as the law of averages says it'll be gone by the time you set off !!! That's what I'm consoling myself with anyway. Cross your fingers for me please (Update thursday: still there but feeling a little better)

Anyway, back to bed with my lemsip. But before I go, I found this last night. It is a photo of me when I was 18. Just thought I'd put it up to give everyone a laugh.